Tuesday 1 October 2013

THE WANDERER AS THE SEEKER

The Himalayan Vagabond: Prologue


I didn't head off to Ladakh in search of adventure. Yes, there you have it, the truth. Unlike many, my expectation from this trip was to discover. Come out of the comfort zone and experience life in the lap of nature.  What drove me to Ladakh was not just the desire for a thrill. It was plain curiosity and the joy of travel - the fulfillment of encountering a new culture while sitting on a bike with the engine just humming along. Adventure just happens while you're at it. Though, I had maps, 3 of them, but in reality I never knew what lay ahead. That alone takes care of the desire to experience thrill. Whenever I had to cross those 7 high passes, I was thrilled. Reasons were plenty, but primarily because I had no co-rider, no supply vehicle,  no technical know-how and no network coverage. If there's a problem, I will have to face it. And of course things went wrong. There were no roads, numerous water crossings, impassable passes and extremely cold temperature which led to snowfall.

If the Himalayas are the best playground for a road trip, then the road from Manali to Leh is the epitome of wheeled adventure in India. With a deadly combination of stunning vistas, mind-boggling scenery and high roads, all you need to do is rent a vehicle and head out. The adventure begins soon after you leave Manali and start towards the first of the 5 high altitude passes - Rohtang La. 

Though a lot of people prefer 4x4 SUVs for the journey, do this very trip on a bike. The sensation is a lot more intense since you're completely exposed to the elements. You ride so high that you are often higher than the maximum permissible ceiling for commercial skydiving (15,000 ft).

In my 10 days of travel,  wherever I went, people offered me their help and hospitality, no matter if they are rich or poor. A local offered me his bedroom for my night stay, army jawans gave me food and insight, etc. However spectacular a landscape may be, it is the people that matter the most. It is they who make travelling a destiny for many souls. And it doesn't prevent or lessen adventure, if you are worried. It just adds some sugar to that piece of cake.

Some highlights of the trip:
1. The cheerful 'Juley' greeting from everyone on the streets, perfect strangers smiling at you
2. The unpredictable weather - cloud, rain, snow&sunshine within 5 hours in the same day
3. Crossing the second highest motorable road on earth when it was snowing
4. The blues of Pangong Tso, a hundred different shades all at the same time
5. Making friends with other travelers, many of them sophisticated world travelers who lose their world-weariness in Ladakh and give in to its quiet charm, some for months on end…

4 comments:

  1. all ears. please unfold the thin airs sooner... not for the trills, perhaps. but, at least for the chills.

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  2. All agog for the next installment, Gourav. This has only whetted my appetite!
    Sir

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