Sunday 29 September 2013

The Coorgie Trio - Part 1: Tibetan Escape

The weekend of Good Friday...  another long weekend knocking our doors and we had absolutely nothing to do. Over the usual adda, someone came up with the idea of a weekend retreat and after days of debating, procrastinating and lobbying within the group, we finalized on Coorg just 48 hours before take off. A small but merry group of Gour, Shreya and me started off at early hours of morning with three printouts of map, 2 bags and 2 bikes. 


The first stop, was the breakfast at Mysore Road’s Kamats, an ritual common for Gour and me from our business trips to Mysore. The time on Mysore Highway was pretty uneventful, until  we hit Srirangapatnam and asked around for a shorter route to Hunsur which can save us few kilometers  Little did we know that we will end up in a dirt trail which made the next few kilometers pretty exciting. Once we were back on the highway, it was one long straight drive ending in Bylakuppe. 

Bylakuppe turned out to be a surprise. The Tibetan refugee colony turned out to be a town spread across kilometers  and had everything from a fully fledged marketplace, farms, monasteries and a peaceful, beautiful lake in the middle of it all. After a few diversions, we reached our first checkpoint, Golden Temple and the guest house adjacent to it. Now, most of the tourists tend to stay in Coorg and drop by to see the temple for few hours in the day. However, our decision to spend a day here turned out to be a really good one. After a quick lunch and visit to the temple, we set out to explore the colony. Once you have spent a few hours in colony, you really forget that you are in the middle of Southern India, the buildings, people and whether remind so much of the towns like Dharamshala (minus the altitude). With the help of a friendly biker, we found the lake, named simply as the Camp 2 lake. Its full of large fishes who eat Tiger biscuits, sold at MRP by monks. The day ends early in Bylapkuppe, like we found out when we went to then adjacent Peace Cafe at six to watch the sunset over a cuppa. 


Next stop was a nice little restaurant called Potala Kitchen in the Tibetan market. The food is amazing, undoubtedly the best Chinese I have ever had. After filling up with Momos, Thupkas and Soups, we headed back at the guest house. It wasn’t even nine and the town was sleeping already. With no street light on and only a large set of starts lighting our path, we made it to our rooms and decided to spend some time at the balcony overlooking the small establishment. In a few minutes, we saw a group of Monks dancing in the temple courtyard. There was no music, but the sight was beautiful. The caretaker of the guest house, another monk told us the monks practice every night after their daily routine for a festival in May. We slipped out of the guest house, and made our way to the courtyard. For next one hour, we sat in a corner and watched them dance. Though we were sure we will be asked to leave since the visiting hours were long over, no one gave us a second look. After an hour, another monk politely told us they will be retiring for the day, and so did we. 

The morning starts early in Bylakuppe, and we were up and ready with them. With our
bags packed, we went to the temple for a more relaxed visit and were amazed at the magnanimity of the place. For an camera enthusiast like Gourav, this place has many things to capture, which he did beautifully. 


We left Bylakuppe energized and elevated and rode to our next destination. Once we hit the highway again, it felt like we have come back to India from an ancient land, the realization was too much to absorb in a single minute. The roads remained breathtaking, scenic treasures around us as we started to gain altitude. After another hour of driving, we were at our next check point, a charming little homestay called ‘Coorg Nest’ located just before the town of Madikeri.  

Friday 27 September 2013

Old Manali - A Dazzling Conjurer

This September was the beginning of a love affair with magical Himachal Pradesh. Manali is 70 kms from Rohtang Pass, which was the gateway for my Ladakh road trip. Well I have loads of things to share about my road trip, for which I will write a separate blog.

This post is about ‘Old Manali’, which is a charming part of the town filled with a variety of eccentrics from all over the world. Interestingly, this fascinating place was not a part of my travel itinerary. However, I had some free time on my return day to Delhi, and went off with a traveller, whom I met while having chicken momos. He was closely related to the lineage of being the Flower Children. I had initially slotted just about an hour, but charmed by the atmosphere, I ended up spending close to three hours there.

Old Manali is, in fact, very close to the popular twin and is nothing but a long, winding uphill. having said that, once you spent 15 mins there, you will begin to realize that it’s the hub of so much life, activity and energy. It forms the epicentre of the free-spirited world. non-conformists, hippies, quaint restaurants, trance music and the sound of the river running through….these are the spells that Old Manali casts. Your trip is also inspired by a puff or two or more of ingenuous herbs.


The cosmopolitan culture is reflected in the cuisine. You can get Israeli food in Shesh Besh, a marvellous cup of coffee in Dylan's roasted toasted and then there's the German Bakery, whose products are not from Germany at all. But his breads, pies and cookies are out of this world.

One very interesting feature about the old town is the artwork done there. Randomly! On the walls of restaurants, on signboards, on floors even. It could be retro or comical or classical or even dark graffiti, depending on what the artist felt like then. There is even a shop selling chillums. I’ve never seen such artistic ones.

So many colorful impressions, so many different people and things to experience, to sample; the Old Manali experience still seems incomplete. But for that, I must go back and need to spend more time.

Anyone interested to explore this conjuring place with me, do 'hash-tag' your name.

Cheers!