Wednesday 9 October 2013

Tales of A Himalayan Vagabond - Chapter 1

Before I share my experience of the solo ride to the top of the world, I must thank all my buddies. You know you deserve it. But I thank these 5 people from the core of my heart:
1. Moon - For giving me the best and the most essential gift, the rucksack
2. Prado - For everything. Right from hunting down the army shop to packing my travel gears
3. Toko - Giving me the sturdy Sikkimese jacket. At 17,400 ft when I was half covered in snow, it was the reason why I survived
4. Sunny - Waiting for me @ bangalore airport for over 2 hours to bid me farewell
5. Sagnik: For helping me to get the all important bus to Manali at 15 minutes past midnight

Day 1: 15th Sep - Manali

Last night I boarded the bus from Chandigarh to Manali. Technically speaking, I boarded it today as it was past midnight. The bus was full with foreign tourists. I felt like a stranger in my own country. Saw the corner seat unoccupied and happily parked myself there. Soon the night and the bus advanced, and I dozed off. As I went into a slumber, beautiful dreams started to play in my mind. I pictured myself standing on the roof of the world and touching the sky. I saw a desert in the sky and a camel walking past me with a milestone which read, you're on the highest motorable road. Very rudely I was awaken from the heart of my psychedelic dream by a blowing sound of a horn. My watch told me it was 9 AM. Looked outside of the window and was enslaved by the magnificent vistas all around. Himalayan range all around and the persistent Beas river cascading its way through it. That's how I was welcomed to the city  of Manali. While watching the beautiful Beas river, I couldn't help but think about its source, the Rohtang La, which also happened to be the first high altitude pass of my journey. They say the excitement begins 15kms from the Rohtang top. My mind returned back to where I was. Manali is a pretty but bustling city. It forms the lifeline for all adventure seekers, as there are numerous roads from Manali which knocks at somewhat hidden passages of the Himalaya. 

I checked into a dirt cheap hotel. Being an off-season, got a fantastic room with a view at just 400 bucks. The view of the mighty Himalayan range took my breath away. High above in the sky, Rohtang Pass was tightly embraced by the threatening looking clouds, teasing you to come and explore either its beauty or wrath. I whispered that I am up for the challenge, but today is not the day. I went out to meet the bike rental person who runs the shop by the name of Manali Bike Rentals. A very cheerful looking fellow. I had spoken to him before leaving Bangalore and had specifically told him that I have no co-rider. He remembered that and had specifically chosen a newer bike for me, a black Royal Enfield Classic 350cc 2012 model. There were doing some last minute checks and informed me it will take them a couple of hours. I thought of utilizing this time and have a quick lunch besides going to an ATM, buying medicines, et al.

Saw a young boy running a Bengali shop, New Neelkamal. Most Bengalis have a fascination with the word 'New'. Anyway, went inside the shop and ordered a plate of luchi and alur dom. Asked him how did he managed to start a Bengali shop out here. His story is nothing but fascinating. Originally from Midnapore, ran off from his home and family as they were forcing him to marry and look after their small farming plot. He took a local train to reach Howrah and quickly boarded the train which will exit Howrah at the earliest. Ticket-less, he survived the TT and the painstakingly long journey to reach where the train was supposed to reach. Figured out it was Kalka and that he had boarded the Howrah-Kalka mail. People there advised him to somehow reach Manali, which he did, and find some work. After 3 years of working as a cook in some other hotel, he managed to open his own.

With his proud smile he served me luchi and alur dom. He asked me about my plans. I nonchalantly told him Ladakh. He asked me where are my friends? At the hotel? I replied to him by saying " No, I'm alone. Taking a bike". He was left dumbfounded and thought of me as a mad man.

Meanwhile, the bike was ready and I took it out for a spin.  There was a very friendly tip the bike had to offer me, "Leave Home". I realized for the rest 12 odd days, this mean machine will be my only companion. I thought of riding towards Rohtang so that tomorrow I would know the exact direction. The bike performed well and as I was beginning to get comfortable, it started drizzling. Crossed a bridge over Beas. The drizzle, gushing sound of the river, chill in the wind and the roaring Enfield. Can life be any better?

I rode till the point where the ascent to Rohtang la begins. The mountains were so tall that it dwarfed everything else. Right there, I saw an Indian Oil tanker being towed down. The windscreen was completely shattered and the engine bonnet was smashed. Took it as a gentle reminder from Rohtang La. It is ready to welcome me. I knew that it would be a thrilling challenge, but I had mustered some strength and knew in my heart that I'm up for it. But I whispered, "Today isn't the day. See you first thing tomorrow morning at 13000 ft".


Tuesday 1 October 2013

THE WANDERER AS THE SEEKER

The Himalayan Vagabond: Prologue


I didn't head off to Ladakh in search of adventure. Yes, there you have it, the truth. Unlike many, my expectation from this trip was to discover. Come out of the comfort zone and experience life in the lap of nature.  What drove me to Ladakh was not just the desire for a thrill. It was plain curiosity and the joy of travel - the fulfillment of encountering a new culture while sitting on a bike with the engine just humming along. Adventure just happens while you're at it. Though, I had maps, 3 of them, but in reality I never knew what lay ahead. That alone takes care of the desire to experience thrill. Whenever I had to cross those 7 high passes, I was thrilled. Reasons were plenty, but primarily because I had no co-rider, no supply vehicle,  no technical know-how and no network coverage. If there's a problem, I will have to face it. And of course things went wrong. There were no roads, numerous water crossings, impassable passes and extremely cold temperature which led to snowfall.

If the Himalayas are the best playground for a road trip, then the road from Manali to Leh is the epitome of wheeled adventure in India. With a deadly combination of stunning vistas, mind-boggling scenery and high roads, all you need to do is rent a vehicle and head out. The adventure begins soon after you leave Manali and start towards the first of the 5 high altitude passes - Rohtang La. 

Though a lot of people prefer 4x4 SUVs for the journey, do this very trip on a bike. The sensation is a lot more intense since you're completely exposed to the elements. You ride so high that you are often higher than the maximum permissible ceiling for commercial skydiving (15,000 ft).

In my 10 days of travel,  wherever I went, people offered me their help and hospitality, no matter if they are rich or poor. A local offered me his bedroom for my night stay, army jawans gave me food and insight, etc. However spectacular a landscape may be, it is the people that matter the most. It is they who make travelling a destiny for many souls. And it doesn't prevent or lessen adventure, if you are worried. It just adds some sugar to that piece of cake.

Some highlights of the trip:
1. The cheerful 'Juley' greeting from everyone on the streets, perfect strangers smiling at you
2. The unpredictable weather - cloud, rain, snow&sunshine within 5 hours in the same day
3. Crossing the second highest motorable road on earth when it was snowing
4. The blues of Pangong Tso, a hundred different shades all at the same time
5. Making friends with other travelers, many of them sophisticated world travelers who lose their world-weariness in Ladakh and give in to its quiet charm, some for months on end…